So, now that I have functioning secondaries, I've also encountered wheelhop. I'd like to think the F-41 option doesn't need any further mods and have a factory swaybar to install. Not sure why it vanished over time. Would this do it? Thanks in advance!
A good rear shock is key to prevent wheelhop. Also note that unhealthy control arm/trailing arm buahings can cause wheelhop also
Anything that permits or helps sustain the cyclic action will often result in wheel hop. So, yes, and play from worn bushings, and bad shocks and improperly fitted air shocks will all contribute. One thing I always liked about the mid 60 A-body GM was torsion bars instead of leaf springs. It is like front wheel drive vs rear wheel drive. A lot of people cannot tell a difference or the difference is no issue, but it makes me uncomfortable to drive. Same with shaft drive and opposed cylinder bikes. Must be something with OCD, or Dyslexia, or maybe some sort of Aspergers. Or, maybe I should try the Sanka. Good luck on the fix.
Apparently yours had tracrion bars @ one time which is why the swaybar was removed. My car has hop too. No F-41 on mine. First thing I was goi g to do was shocks & rear bushings.
my 70 455 4 speed car had horrible wheel hop, replacing control arm bushings and adding a rear sway bar remedied it for me.
Air shocks are one of the worst causes of wheelhop. I witnessed a guy try a burnout in his Chevelle(with air shocks),and it ripped the axle tube right out of the pumpkin,and broke the side of the pumpkin. There are other situations and examples of air shocks causing wheel hop,but that is the most memorable. They are too stiff,and redistribute the load into the wrong place,along with changing the geometry,if they are pumped to the moon. You also need to make sure you have good bushings.Old,worn out bushings will also cause more movement and deflection.
Thanks fellas! Bushings will definitely be replaced when the sway bar is installed and those shocks are ditched.
You'll be seeing my rear up there before too long (trying to convince Brett to send his too) for a rebuild & new carrier & @ that point it'll be getting new bushings & shocks (most likely Bilstein) I'm enjoying driving the car a little bit first & I'm doing some work to the shop & I hate to have the car immobilized.
I like these because they're a lot quieter than the polyurethane, these are the polygraphite bushing from PST; http://p-s-t.com/series-220213-poly...set.html#!year=1970||make=BUICK||model=GS 455 Derek
They sound good anyway. My last car had polyurethane all around & I liked how tight the car felt, but everything was new so I didn't know how much to attribute to the bushings.
New shocks, bushings, the swaybar and maybe an airbag and I should be ready to roll. Wheelhop is no bueno.
just an FYI, you can buy the same sway bars that OPGI sells from Summit racing for less $$ with free shipping. I picked up a 1" rear and a 1 1/4" front for a little over $200 shipped
Just under an inch. The one inch rear and 1.25 front will give you very neutral handling that is easily controlled with throttle. What size tire will you run? Wider TIRE in back (than front) will cause more understeer with this bar setup.
I should have been more clear. Haha Diameter rear sway bar and mine originally came with 14 inch wheels. The car has 275/60 - 15's on it that are still in excellent shape.
