Tyler, Are you using a fiberglass pin on deck lid ? GSX clone also ? How large of a rear tire are you going to run ? ( If it is going to be a small tire car you are going to want/need weight in the rear. ) I have had both pin on / off and hinged deck lids and believe me you will get tired of taking the deck lid on and off for fueling or whatever else. When your down to "round robin" and final rounds it is just something else to distract you and slow you down. And then in the heat of things sometimes a quick fastener wont lock or if you use detachable pins you can't find them. ( wire them to the protector plate and they just scratch your car ) Then while you have gone to fill your fuel jug and left the deck lid on the ground a wind gust comes from no where and blows it into the NEW one week old toter home parked beside you. ( true story ) You might want to reconsider keeping them. plate your lid underside to adapt to the factory hinge by fiberglassing in some aluminum bars that are tapped for bolts or thin sheet metal with nuts welded on. Drill holes in the hinges to lighten them up ( Not too close together ) , use aluminum bolts / washers. Sorry about the rant Tyler........just making suggestions..I know you have your own vision of how you want you car to be... do not stray from that. I am just sharing "Been there done that" stuff with you. If it is only weight savings you are after you should look for as much as you can on the other end of the car ! Also compare the weight of the lid and multiple pins/pin plates VS a plated lid on lighter hinges using keyed lock or just several pins / pin plates on the back lip. You might be surprised how little you would have saved. Great work !!! My hat is off to you and your dad. Also thanks for the parts trade, I hope to have your cowl hood and fenders shipped to you soon. I will e-mail when I make the final arrangements.
Thanks for the information David, I have already ordered the pin on deck lid for the car, so I am getting the hinges out so they wont rattle. This car is not going to be a GSX clone, I am going to paint it flat black or competition silver. I am leaning more toward the flat black. I have decided to build this car so that I can run in the West Texas Outlaw Ten Five Association. So I am probably going to run the 30x10.5 inch slick. I may mini-tub this car also. As far as the Deck Lid going on and off I will just make my dad do it. He is my pit crew and that is his job. Just kidding lol. :TU: We have multiple gas containers that we will utilize, and not have to leave the fiberglass decklid sitting for very long. If it has to stay off for longer than just filling up the fuel cell, we have an enclosed trailer that we can store it in. I really appreciate you letting me know the ups and downs everything, and sharing your experiences with racing. I am new to this sport (I have been racing only a year) so any information is appreciated! Thank you for trading parts, that has really helped us be able to work on getting the rest of the car together. We have more parts than money, so anything else that we can trade would really benefit us. :beer
Tyler, Did this Post Sedan have "Clear" or "Tinted glass? Was it all original to this car? Date coded? Was it in good shape? Scratches? What are your plans with all the side glass you just removed from this car? For sale? Dan.
Dan, The glass is tinted. As far as I know it is original to the car. Is there any way to tell? The glass is in pretty good shape, and is for sale, as soon as i use it for a template for my lexan glass.
Dan, I'm not sure if it is clear or tinted. It has tint on it, so we will have to take that off and hold it up to the light I guess.
After seeing the West Texas 10.5 class run, I am definatly feeling good about this build. I think that I will be very competitive in that class, so I am building this car to meet their standards. I have to have a stock appearing interior, so instead of aluminum door panels and such, i will just put the door panels back on, not much weight difference between the aluminum and the door panels anyway. Anybody have suggestions on how I can do the rear seat? I am thinking about just welding them in. Also do you think I can cut some weight out of them?
Great project! Have you considered cro-mo trans crossmember and cro-mo core support? Mark Burton is making these parts for his car and for me at least the crossmember. There is a lot of weight to be saved in these two places!
They were talking about mini tubbing but not sure if that was now or later? I thought they were going for 10.5" tire class but could be wrong...
I plan on running in the 10.5 outlaw class which allows mini tubs only to fit the 10.5 tire in. If the 30 inch tall tire will not fit I will mini tub it, but I do not plan on doing it unless I really have to. I havent made much progress on the car this week, I put the rear windows back in and the rear door panels. I have to do the rear firewall before I can reinstall the rear seat. I got the cage in this week, but I am racing this weekend so it will be next week sometime before I start working on that. I am excited that I am starting to get some of it back together, rather than taking it all apart!
10.5 tires will fit this car with no problem. Just get the right offset rim 5" offset on a 9" or 10" rim
I was thinking about doing a 15x10 inch rim. I read that the 5.5" backspacing will work. I am not worried about it fitting in between the wheel well. I am worried about it hitting the top of the wheel tub.
On your diagonal bars running to the trans hump are they welded just to it?I was to the understanding that they had to be welded to a 6x6 plate or a brace/cross-member under the car. Jamie
I don't believe that I even need them, because it is a A-body with a full frame. Those are for uni-body cars, with only partial frame. I welded them in to help hold the rollbar while I welded it to the frame.
