Update on my t-type BBB - Deck lid pics

Definitely the makings of a highly covert operation. Looking good! Once you get passed the mach-up and all the b.s. with the headers it is easy flying the rest of the way. I would have never thought about the BOP 8.5 and the GN 8.5 covers. That's good information to know. What radiator are you going to run? Think about this know before its too late. Where is the oil filter going to be postioned?

You may want to do some notching on the frame on the passenger side to make lower rad hoses and oil filters a little more accessible for swapping out. I didn't do any notching over there and it can be a real b&$#@ to change a little larger than normal oil filter. I sometimes end up driving a screw driver through it because I can't get my oil filter tool on it.

Here is something else. If you run vacuum brakes make sure you put the one-way valve back in the line, or use a catch can, otherwise your master cylinder vacuum will bleed back to the motor and you'll get a soft pedal.

It definitely takes a real man to tear down a Buick and put it all back together. You should be able to handle that.:beers2:

 

Hey Davey,

Thanks for the advice and encouragement. Since you mentioned it we will put the front cover on along with the oil filter and check out the clearance issues over there.. The chassis guy will love it. More notching, more "c" ..
Great advise!!!!!!! :TU:

Were running the Master Power old style all cast manual brake master cylinder. I would try something else next time.

Covert. lol. Perhaps for the Chevy guys around town that know another Buick will hit the tarmac next year. I have been hanging around the Finishline Line Motorsports guys too much lately ou: Now, smartly, the Bottom end is going on a road trip sometime next week for a set of these : SEE Picture below. Were also going to deck the block to get closer to 11. 1 along with additional oil mods.

I have been looking for a rad; any suggestions for this build would be helpful. I would like to keep the $ down though. Alum is much preferred for weight. Mez electric pump is part of the system.

Oh ya, The heads are finally complete! They were on the motor but the flow numbers didn't quite add up, so we flowed each port (thanks Bobb!). They turned out to be pretty good for this street / strip motor. 340 Int 260 Ex. + +

 

For an affordable aluminum rad I went with the biggest Summit brand aluminum rad they had and bought a Griffin Rad cap. I did have to notch out my core support, but it was weight well lost. I used upper mounts from a Ford Crown Victoria and reused my lower rubbers. You may have some problems finding a lower rad hose for your build. I went with a lower rad hose from an 86 Regal with an olds 307.

I also pulled an electric fan out of a Lincoln Continental. Lincoln's always have the best electric fans. That beats anything you can buy new.

 

I will take a look at that stuff :TU: Good idea on the fan and hose

 

Ordered the Summit rad today, thanks for the tip !

FYI - when you order the pro star rims, they are 4.75" not 5x 4.5" !!!! OOpppss :grin:

The rest of the fuel system will be here this wed!! Well, I still need to pick a regulator as the Magnafuel I have turned out to be for EFI.

 

Glad your making some progress, I'm not. I thought my back was getting better but now its back like it was. I'm starting to realize that if things don't get better I will never be able to drive the Regal again. Maybe I need to think about selling the car or motor so someone else can enjoy them, oh well.o No: o No:

 

Keep those pix. coming and thanks for the frequent updates:Comp:
:TU: uzzled: :beers2:

 

Just think about how quickly you recovered from injury 10 years ago. Keep that in perspective as you heal from today’s ailments, it will come back; just give it more work and extra time. Lol, we don't need your Buick, ours suck all our time and cash as it is! Keep thy chin high and work on your back more than the "reag" you will get it all back where it needs to be!

FASTEST 430 : "Keep those pix. coming and thanks for the frequent updates"

We are having a blast each week putting this thing together. Glad to hear some other folks out there like to see it as well. It makes posting this stuff fun when there is feed back!


Merry Christmas !!!!

 

Its a great feeling knowing that you just saved 300 bucks.:beer

 

lol, ya, kinda uzzled: I think the word saving and my car don't go hand in hand :TU: But ya, shaving a buck or two when it doesn't make it run any harder is always a good thing

 

I always consider it savings......I'm gonna buy it anyhow.


Consider the options! Drive a Hyundai or Build a BuHoGG!

 

good point :laugh:

 

Here are a couple of this weeks chores :grin:

Nice hack job on the trunk "A" :grin:

Two 8an's off the cell to a "Y" 10an, Summit 100mic 10an filter, A1000 pump, 10an to Magna fuel three port, port 8an's to carb, through flow to 10an A1000 reg, 8an return, nothing off the reg. I was going to feed the third or middle port on the magna fuel block to a 6an NOS solanoid.

 

Per NHRA rules if you care (and I think you do) you have to make a cover (aluminum or steel) to cover any portion of a fuel cell that protudes below the trunk floor. The rule book I sent you will tell what thickness it has to be. You will have a PM from me soon (tonight).

 

Crap, I know better. I talked my self right out of the cover. I chaulked it up as one of those, how could it be, seems stupid rules? Well, atleast we won't see the hack job! Er, atleast that one p

Thanks for the heads up. I'll look it up and start on it this week.....

 

This was a cuss.... The stock rotor has a stud hole of .500" the new ARP studs are .580" . I had to drill the holes .. Fits now.. Also got the rear rubber in .

 

ARP also makes a metric stud (longer than stock) that I used (part#100-7708) that no drilling is necessary. It can save you some money if you already have some metric lug nuts. I have never seen these studs listed in a catalog but both Jegg's and Summit have them but you have to ask for them. Don't know how they expect you to ask for them when they don't list them in their catalog's? What size rear rubber are you running, I could't tell from the picture?

 

Well, I had some shank style lugs nuts that didn't fit the metric stock front studs so I drilled and pounded in the ARP studs.. Only my lugs nuts are 1/2" and the new studs are 7/16"..... So I need new front nuts. I knew the ARPS would be tight or they wouldn't fit, Jegs claimed thats the best they could do. Can't wait to see what the rear moser axles will need. I think those will be correct as the measurements were right on with what jegs had.

The rear rubber is 275 60 15. The rear wheel spacing is 4.5 They are 27" tall and 10.7" wide (tread). I just put those on to break in the car, my buddy calls them melt me offs. I should have used a lighter offset and used a wider tire. Any idea if you can use wheel spacers or some sort of shim for drag racing?

The front is 26 7.5 15

 

My rear axles (also Moser) have the 5/8" wheel studs and I wouldn't recommend anything else for drag racing. My theory is that if you go big then you won't have to upgrade in case you go to more power at a later date. I currently run 30x13.50x15 ET streets but will probably go with a 315 MT Drag Radials in the future as my buddy runs them on his Regal and really like them. My Regal as well as my buddies both have the frame notched and wheel well lips trimmed to get this size tire under the car. I don't remember what the wheel off set is but will check for you. I have always gone with the rule to fit the tallest tire that will fit as that will better control wheel spin.

 

Hmm, just measured and the rear studs are 1/2". Guess that will do for now. I would like to know your off set, the car is going to the chassis guy in "two to four weeks". That would be a good time to notch the frame. 30" tall would be nice. Did you do anything to the tubs?