Issues

Engine is in, started bolting up underside stuff.
HEADER TIME, I RTV’d the new gaskets to the headers, I hate this part, weaseling them up, drivers side sucks, my new SRE pan is taking up swing room I need to get header into position WITHOUT tearing up the gasket, I can’t rotate the header and go forward now as the kick out on the oil pan doesn’t allow me too anymore, so the #1 header port won’t clear the #1 exhaust port, it slams right into it, and tears up the gasket. I removed the gasket, got the header into position, no gasket tho, I attach the bolts( EXCEPT MIDDLE CENTER) check clearance to the pan, no go, a header tube is riding on the edge of the pan, I’m going to have to be a Chevy guy and heat and bang that tube.
What’s worse is that cool SRE sticker on the side of the pan will probably wrinkle from the heat.

 

What about those felpro gaskets that are separate and just hook over the bolts?

 

THAT may be an option, I have plenty of those

 

Ya Mark, I think these will definitely work for ya.

 

Remflex. Slip them into position after header is in position, but loose enough. They are much thicker and just might kick header out enough and away from pan.
Take that cool SRE decal off and put it on your toolbox.

 

I used the reflex (thanks Sean) when I put my 350 together and they are nice, but they are $, so you can't just mess a bunch of them up!

 

Or cut the front one off, RTV the others like you prefer, then stick the remaining one in holding it with one hand, put in a bolt, then rotate in place and put in the other bolt.

 

That's the beauty of the Fel pro (and maybe Remflex) gaskets... you drop them in after you get the bottom bolts of the header on. Then you put the top bolts in. Makes life a lot easier.

 

Which header size primary pipes you using, Looks like some adjustments need to be made to the pan when building. I know 1 5/8 fit different than the 1 3/4 which is what I am using those headers almost hit the frame on the pass side.

 

Plus I have those “in stock” probably a few sets from over the years.
The Remflex are nice, but I never had an issue with header gaskets blowing out.
Just for giggles I’m going to check how true the header flange is, if it’s flat, I may not run any gaskets.

 

They’re 1 3/4
I was wondering if my old 1 5/8 would have had better figment.
I KNOW the center lower bolt was a bit easier to access

 

I’m going to test fit the passengers side header when I get home from work, see if that needs any adjustments.
Typical hot rodding, as Carol Gellner told me, “Buy and modify”

 

TA's or Hooker Supercomps?

 

TA’s

 

I heated ‘em up and gave them a couple love whacks, nothing serious, just needed to flatten the joint in that area.
I’m taking my torches back home incase the other header needs adjusted.
I’m glad I didn’t pay to have them coated!
Rustoleum matte silver high heat grille paint works great, good to 1200 deg, and 13.00 bucks a can

 

Remflex FTW.
you can section them as well... they solved so many of my different exhaust leak issues

 

Rattle can high temp is your friend. No muss, no fuss, no wait time, & no expense.

 

Still poking away at it.
I slotted the lower center bolt hole, now I can insert the bolt a couple turns, then hang the header off of it.
Loosened and zip tied the steering shaft to give me more wiggle room.
Gotta test fit for clearance to the pan as soon as it’s cool enough to handle.
Those kick outs on the pan REALLY interferes with installation, but that’s Hot Rodding

 

Too tired and it’s like an oven in the garage, I know to stop before I loose it

 

So I assume that means you have to slot the gasket too. Will that work for Remflex? Or would you put it on first?
It is hot....