bolts ''Now, things get a little different with the staggered bolt pattern starters. IF, IF, IF a starter with a staggered bolt pattern has an ALUMINUM nose, it requires two long bolts. BUUUUUUUUUUUUUT, if a starter with a CAST IRON nose has the staggered bolt pattern ----------- IT REQUIRES TWO MEDIUM LENGTH BOLTS! The GM part number for the medium length bolt is 3733289. UNFORTUNATELY, those bolts are now discontinued. REGARDLESS of which bolts are required for your starter, YOU NEED TO USE the special shouldered bolts which have serrations on the shank.''
I showed my boss the two bolts I found for the starter that came off the car, I said “I know these are the starter bolts cause of the knurling” He said “I don’t know about all that”
Mark, use a tubing cutter and cut 1/2" off the dipstick tube. Probably a few smaller cuts more until you hit the full mark.
Forget the dipstick I want to know how is it driving better go now before rain moves in getting bigger by minute. We have couple hrs left I am going out soon to test again.
What dipstick lolol For now I know there’s at least 5.5 quarts in the pan. Just got back from a ride, runs like it did before, don’t know about track performance yet, I’ll start planning that. I put 30 bucks of Shell 93 in yesterday to mix with the old gas, I didn’t like the way the trans was shifting, really hard into second, and 3rd gear seemed really delayed at light throttle. Even when I got the trans. back from Janis, I noticed he replaced my big can modulator with the new style tiny one, it’s since then had delayed shifts to third gear at light throttle, I want to remedy that. NO PING or RATTLE I got on it turning from Canal RD going up Rockside, didn’t hear any pinging just spinning tires from a 30 mph roll. I may drive it to work tomorrow.
I was concerned about this then it happened While jacking the front end up yesterday the Jack pad slid off the crossmember and the car bounced on the sway bar My floor Jack is an old Sears 1.5 ton, and the round pad is twice the size these newer jacks have, my SRE pan is so close to the crossmember I can’t get the Jack rolled back enough to get the pad centered on the crossmember. I’m just glad nothing important got damaged. I’ll remove the front bar and visit my floor press with it.
Same thing happened to me - take this opportunity to upgrade your front bar, assuming you have a rear bar.
Have the rear bar, if I can’t straighten the bend I’ll be looking I’m glad it hit that and not my balancer
I was having the same problem/issue trying to jack up my car. A buddy of mine who is a machinist made this adapter for my jack. It fits perfectly in the crossmember hole. My car sits low so I also drive it up on 2-2x6's.
Yup! Thats one of those gizmos/tools that you should have 3 of. One in the garage, one in the trunk and another in a shed
FINALLY got a bit of rattle/ping going to work going from 70 to 95 or so, floored it, heard some rattle and backed off and thought “ Good, I finally heard something” Light cruise driving normal 33 total timing all is good. So the rattle tells me I’m DEFINITELY going to need race gas for 1/4 Mile full throttle runs. I’m relieved the engine said something, cause I was wondering “ why no pinging? Something ain’t right”
